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These releases from IWC blend a bit of familiar with a tinge of nostalgia and, in doing so, have brought real energy to the Portugieser line. IWC has taken a foundational model, in the reference 325, and constructed an ideal watch perfectly suited for today. Equal parts sport and dress, the Portugieser Automatic 40 will be a welcome mainstay for IWC, while the two link newest colorways for the Portugieser Automatic 42 offer great variety to a watch which has created a legacy all its own.

It would have to be the Royal Oak. It's my favorite watch. I wouldn't move far away from the traditional elements of the design. I'd keep the majority of link the heritage, but twist the design about 20 percent. You can clearly see the design changes and evolution between a 5402 to a 15202, and that's mostly in the width of the hands and markers. This is a design where a minute change makes it feel different. I have a few ideas on how to play with the tapisserie dial and mix case metals.

Most 5711s you'll see use the caliber 324SC. But take another look at that press release from 2006: In it, Patek says that the new 5711 is powered by the caliber 315SC. It's thought that Patek was getting rid of these 315SC movements (used in the previous white gold 3711G). The caliber 315 can be found in examples from 2006 through early 2007. Given the short production, these First Series examples are link seen less often.